Atc guide mode reddit. Fatter ropes will also be harder to belay with; 10.

Atc guide mode reddit ATC works much better if you are using thicker ropes though. curiously DMM's manual mentions nothing about a 'backup' but does describe several modes of failure in guide mode. I still carry a guide atc for rappelling or possible unique situations. This could easily occur if you used assist when belaying your lead then chucked the device straight on in assist to guide your second. He asked for an ATC. Lastly, try to find a carabiner with as round of a profile as you can - I love the Petzl Attache for belaying in guide mode, made a pretty good difference. I would argue it is a necessary part of any plaquette device when lowering. I can’t find anything about this major issue online. But he asked for a tube not a grigri. If he falls and the clove hitch is not complete the carabiner will prevent the atc from blocking. Or. The grigri (device with a lever) is a hands down better device. Might as well invest in a slightly more expensive guide-style device (BD ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, Grivel Belay Master Pro, etc. In every situation you want auto over manual. An atc guide or similar device will allow you to belay from the top in guide mode, belay two partners from above, and rappel off the route. 5ish. As a leader I would prefer to just carry an atc guide, as a follower I prefer to use a grigri and carry an atc for backup and as a rappel device. I don't use my ATC-Guide in low friction mode - but I see people do it all the time without problem. . We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Buy an ATC-Guide or Reverso or other device designed for it if you want guide mode. 5, and I dread belaying with that. having said that, I find the reverso much better with skinny ropes that you're more likely using in mountaineering. Not sure why the eyelet is in your way. Aug 14, 2018 · DMM Pivot is next level when it comes to guide mode. it’s worth it’s weight in gold and I used to be in the camp thinking gri Gris are stupid. Unlike the Reverso, on the ATC-Guide the eyelet is parallel to the rope. Use it in the HFM when you want more holding power as when using small diameter ropes, rappelling a single line and while belaying a climber working a route. Those are all tube belay devices (ATC is the brand name) but they have more functionality if he ever goes outside. The ATC-XP is a variable friction device, meaning that it has a high friction mode (HFM) and a regular friction mode (RFM). Atc style belay device will fail in some cases when you have 2 seconds coming to the belay horizontally (traverse) if I remember correctly. for mountaineering this isn't an issue, but for rock climbing lots of folks are using fatter ropes. I made the switch last year from BD ATC-Guide solely on the ease of lowering a second. same. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. It's also lighter. Also the ATC Guide is fecking heavy, whereas the Reverso cubed is light as a feather (it's lighter than the old Reverso in fact!) The Reverso is better than the ATC because of size and weight. 2 is about as big as I like to go with guide mode, but one of my partners has a 10. Exact same function, just lighter and smaller. Aug 26, 2021 · The Guide is a bit heavier than the base ATC, but it has ridges that add friction to the system, and you can use it for multi-pitch climbing. Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. Fatter ropes will also be harder to belay with; 10. Jul 16, 2014 · Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows the leader to go almost hands-free while safely bringing the follower up to his stance. However the ATC Guide manual specifically demonstrates the use of a munter when Guide belay with a gri gri all day everyday now baby, the slack tending is infinitely easier than hauling rope through a guide mode atc. Atc will also fail in some cases if your seconds falls while he’s making his own clove hitch at the belay. They can be used as a normal belay device too. The Jul on the other hand is an auto locking ATC style device and there is no argument against it being better. The rope would just run along one side of the eyelet. ) now so that you don't buy the Pilot or XP, and when you decide to do multi pitch (or climb with twin/half ropes), you have to then purchase a second device. belaying two in guide mode on the reverso is a pain in the ass if the rope is over 9. Get him a reverso, pivot, or ATC Guide. The base ATC is the most straightforward (you can’t load it backwards like the Guide since there are no ridges for the brake side), and it is cheaper than the Guide, though both are on the cheaper end Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. Also seems to get hellishly hot when rapping compared to an atc (less material and steel I guess?). Also its good to have a device that both parties are familiar with when multi-pitch climbing if swinging leads, and the megajul is not intuitive in it’s top belay mode. I personally don’t like the guide mode set up, and I don’t like the lowering. Use your ATC-XP to belay off your harness and redirect the rope to a piece above you. Get him a tube with guide/plaquette mode. This setup, which is also called “guide mode,” automatically stops the rope from moving through the device—or “catches” the follower—if he falls. Even if you decide to stick to single pitch stuff, it's far I found that when the Giga Jul is in guide mode but is set to assisted braking, the rope won’t feed at all, locks both ways. Apr 4, 2008 · Basically the ATC Guide is a rip off o the Reverso cubed, but the bottom hole (the one you put a krab into in order to un-lock a locked plate), is bigger on the Reverso cubed, than on the ATC Guide (thus more useable). If they fell at the lip of a roof, or just want to re-climb a given section, lowering them in a controlled manner is simple and secure with the Pivot. Sold it, bought an atc guide, never looked back. I would absolutely still include a munter or autoblock it in the system. Tie yourself in tight to your anchor and use your ATC-XP to belay off your rope tie in. kuy hjesd fzjlyr rdj ssoovva wit mjdioz etern uofqjot aiuws