Finger training rock climbing reddit. Reddit's rock climbing training community.

Finger training rock climbing reddit. The typical advice is to rest 1-2 weeks before reintroducing finger training (including climbing) at a reduced intensity, gradually returning to your previous level over 4-6 weeks. It has been shown to reduce injury risk by exposing the fingers to supramaximal loads in a controlled environment and to improve performance by allowing you to climb harder and more frequently 1. I Just completed two relatively intense 4-week cycles of training. Broken finger from a past life preventing me from training and climbing HARD A couple years ago a friend and I had a friendly Brazilian jujitsu match outside of a bar parking lot. More specifically, the part that gets wider is the cortical part of bone around the proximal inter-phalanx. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). On the day after climbing days , usually my fingers feel destroyed/sore, and I always feel a lot better doing the routine. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Mar 10, 2023 · This is typically when most climbers realize they need to do some specific finger training. The reason I like this is because despite their being merit to “just climbing” instead of training finger strength in isolation, I feel quite strongly a lot of new climbers at modern gyms will end up under training their fingers due to the heavy use of jugs and slopers. For many, the added volume becomes a new risk factor. MembersOnline • Frequent_Armadillo31 ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Fingers of steel are the foundation of harder climbing. MembersOnline • sloshedup ADMIN MOD Using a hangboard will help you with having strong fingers, but none of that other stuff. For example, I cannot fully flex my middle fingers (L + R). com Apr 24, 2023 · This is very helpful when you’re exploring grips that you find challenging, and you can emphasize the different fingers in your grip or experiment with slightly different wrist angles. I’ve found that my biggest weakness right now is my forearm strength. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. MembersOnline • Beauboon ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Most feature a variety of edge sizes, finger pockets, and grips that mimic common hand positions and movements used in rock climbing. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. For me, training (off the ground lifts) full crimps with a flexed pinky has helped my performance immensely. If you haven’t, you might not even know they exist. I Boulder V2 and climb 5. Any recommendations for wrist, grip, and finger exercises to get a better hold? Specifically exercises I can do on days off from climbing, with little to no equipment (unless there’s something so awesome that you can’t not recommend it) (Also I can’t put a hang board in my apartment) Thanks y’all! Reddit's rock climbing training community. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. My grip fails on certain holds. I was wondering if anyone has figure out a way to increase grip strength for things like rock climbing when they have hypermobility in their hands/fingers? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Jared Vagy and you’ll learn the proper way to train, and be on your way to injury-free climbing. MembersOnline • Hickory101 ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Jun 23, 2024 · Utilizing Finger Strength in Climbing Moves Incorporating finger strength into your climbing moves is essential for tackling challenging bouldering problems. My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Moonboard. Sign up for Strength Training For Injury Prevention with Dr. Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… Not climbing, but I had spent last little while doing wrist stuff from armwrestling training, and then when trying either the sloper on my hangboard or boulders I’ve noticed a huge increase in my capability. Feb 24, 2023 · Developing a systematic approach toward training provides a way to modulate capacity, prevent overtraining, and reduce injury risk. Dedicated to increasing all our… Reddit's rock climbing training community. But since every grip i trained normally doesn’t use a flexed pinky (half crimp, open, 3 finger drag) it seemed worthwhile to train it. In this article, we will take a look at how to test finger strength with the arm fixated, using tension and compression-based dynamometry. Feb 17, 2023 · Hi everyone, I'm new here and I'd like to ask how you would structure a finger-strength training for bouldering. Im interested what the grade point was for different people when just climbing a lot wasn't enough to keep progressing anymore and you actually had to start training for it in order to keep getting better. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. MembersOnline • ICanCountTo0b1010 ADMIN Reddit's rock climbing training community. Depends on what you want out of them. For me, im at 7B now slowely breaking into 7B+ and i feel like it is becoming harder to keep progressing by just climbing. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. In this article, I’ll suggest that fingerboard training is the most accessible tool to gain finger strength as a beginner and an intermediate climber; I Improving finger mobility ? Hey, As years of climbing (and training) goes, I feel that I'm loosing mobility in my fingers. I'm not looking for rapid results or anything. What Does The Research Say? The flipside of "just climbing" is to "vary your training", which exposes you to different movements (climbing) or methods (training). Reddit's rock climbing training community. They allow you to slowly and statically load your fingers, much more safe than climbing often is. I agree that strength (especially finger strength) is very important in climbing, but I’d like to caution against the idea that technique is mostly intuitive, and that most people will be able to “figure it out” by just climbing. Reddit's rock climbing training community. What would you consider the most important of them to train (if you had to only pick one due to time constraints) in order to move forward? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. How forearm training improves our climbing? I'll start that by forearm training I don't mean any types of static hangs/holds but rather exercises like dumbbell (wrist) curls , reverse curls, wrist rotation etc. A couple of months back I developed some right-hand ring finger pain, I’m pretty sure while climbing an overhang V4 (or maybe overdoing pull exercises). MembersOnline • CloverHorse ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Dedicated to increasing all our… Block pulls are fast becoming a go-to for training climbing-specific grip strength. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. How do I actually train for climbing? Especially now that im stuck home for quarantine. the first was strength focused with lots of max hangs and bouldering, the second (and most recent) was endurance related with high volume linked boulders sets, repeaters and ARCing. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Reddit's rock climbing training community. These are also the perfect tool for at-home training or to get your blood flowing before the real thing at the gym. Note that bouldering intensity is highly variable, and should be evaluated in terms of specific moves and their impact to the affected finger. As long as you have a solid base of climbing experience (climbers just starting out will find maximum benefit from just climbing), finger strength training is an excellent addition to a climber’s training regimen. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. So if you struggle with situations where you can hit a hold open hand, but need to roll up into a crimp, finger rolls are pretty clearly a good idea. May 23, 2024 · Staying consistent and patient is key, as you allow your fingers to adapt to the new challenges you’ll face during hangboard workouts. Looking to build your finger strength as a rock climber? These articles, podcasts, videos, and more can help you learn to strengthen and care for your fingers. Combining a finger program with mental conditioning and movement training can further optimize per Glossary Reddit's rock climbing training community. See below for a complete video walking through a step-by-step process of how to test no hang finger strength. Currently 29 turning 30 next month. Fingers will get wider when climbing, especially when you start hangboarding, and especially when you train max strength. 232 votes, 68 comments. In terms of their place in a general finger training routine, I think it makes the most sense to program them 1-3 times a year for 3-6 weeks Reddit's rock climbing training community. I am still improving though, becoming a 7B+ climber by just doing 128 votes, 41 comments. MembersOnline • eshlow ADMIN Reddit's rock climbing training community. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Increased training volume also contributes to overuse injuries, especially in fingers/elbows. MembersOnline • owensum ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. "Controlled strengthening program using sub-max effort" does not require replacing climbing with hangboarding. Is there any research if such type of training translates to improved grip or fingers strength? Have any of you found this exercises Reddit's rock climbing training community. May 10, 2022 · Unlike regular climbing hangboards, portable hangboards help you warm up at a crag. Check it out! Hi all, I recently got into bouldering and I'm having lots of fun! But the thing that holds me back from this is my fingers and forearm gets tired too fast. Questions for climbers/coaches: Generally, what do you think? I’m a newbie climber. 8. I’m always looking for a way to increase my hand strength. 3 and 2 finger pockets are much better at training the finger strength Reddit's rock climbing training community. As people have said, the best way to get better at slopers IMO is: Train slopers. any tips on how to increase grip strength? Something i can do while im not climbing? thanks Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. Finger Reddit's rock climbing training community. He basically stretched 1 minute video into 25 minutes missing all the crucial points. Fair warning though: Hangboarding is boring. In my experience testing and tracking professional climbers for many years, I’ve realized that this narrative is unsubstantiated. Since bouldering is quite expensive, I can only afford to the climbing gym Dec 18, 2020 · Climbing is a mental and technical skill sport that requires regular practice and devotion, and paying attention to your finger strength is crucial if you want to climb safely. As to whether or not you should train your three finger drag, I have this short anecdote. The more knowledge and experience you have, the more you can adjust your training to your needs and the better your transfer. So I guess if this beginner is very disciplined and understands that after adding 2-3 no-hang sessions a week they also need to decrease climbing volume then it's totally fine. Yet he makes no comments on training fatigue, periodization, progressive overload or how to fit these in a weekly training program that includes climbing. Alex Megos has a good video about finger training on his channel, where he specifically recommends some light hangboarding exercises for beginners. You should not be finger training until you are 2 years or so into climbing. I woke up and realize my finger was crooked with the knuckle swollen and plump. FYI to anyone here with questions, Training beta podcast has two very detailed episodes on specifically rehabbing finger injuries. 205 votes, 98 comments. One of which is by Esther Smith, the woman in this video. MembersOnline • Mammoth_Okra4138 ADMIN MOD Off the Wall/Training/Recovery To reiterate: the best training for climbing is climbing. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. Focus on engaging your fingers and utilizing your finger strength to make precise and controlled movements on the holds. It’s basically lifting weight of the ground that’s tied to an edge is some sort. I get pooped out super quick. Just looking for safe and reliable ways to train the fingers. He makes this video super complicated with a title "how to get stronger fingers". Just have fun on the wall! You don't need to hangboard! Yes your finger strength is currently lacking as a new climber but the consensus seems to be hangboarding in the first year of climbing is likely to lead to over-use injuries on those tender finger Reddit's rock climbing training community. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I also have short pinkies, but when watching back some of my climbing videos about 50% of my full crimps have flexed pinkies. Also, what’s the difference between this and For beginners (and intermediate, and most advanced) climbers, all the benefits of structured supplemental finger training can be accomplished by adding a degree of structure to your on-the-wall training. Just climb and allow your hands to become acclimated to these new stresses - otherwise you are going to injure yourself. Unfortunately, the only advice I’ve found is that to build this, you have to continue climbing. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. Finger strength, though critical to climbing performance, is just one component to climbing hard. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. If you’ve ever injured a finger pulley, you’re keenly aware of the structure. I’ve been seeing these “no hangs”lately on social media and what not. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. Programming exercises is all about what they train your body to do. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD On climbing days my fingers have started feel fantastic, if I didn't have time during the day I do it as my warm up paired with recruitment pulls. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. Tyler Nelson's new effective finger strength active recruitment and muscle coordination protocols to break that climbing plateau! Reddit's rock climbing training community. Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any Reddit's rock climbing training community. You get used to body positions which reduces the amount of finger strength you need If you need more finger strength for slopers, training slopers on hangboard is not a productive use of time. Years later it is still swollen and plump. Some climbers suggest waiting until you’re comfortable at V4, while others propose a two-year wait after starting climbing. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. I've been climbing for about two and half years. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. I’ve been climbing for about a month now, and I want do everything in my power to get better. Max finger strength is your ability to grab a hold for five to 10 seconds. Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). I started reading "The Rock Climbers Training Manual" recently and it says it can take up to 6 years for your finger tendons and ligaments to adapt to handling the stress climbing puts on them. MembersOnline • Paul513Journey ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Apr 7, 2024 · Introduction to Arm-Lifting finger strength training Finger strength training is essential if you want to improve your climbing. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. MembersOnline • Nandor1262 ADMIN MOD 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. the problem is my Mar 23, 2023 · Learn Dr. This has hindered my climbing. If you're like me and always in "performance mode" as opposed to "training mode," just climbing and sending is increasing your climbing skill but training your fingers relatively less compared to others. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. MembersOnline • satacat ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Finger training Hello. I am planning to start finger training, and I'm wondering how I can supplement my climbing with finger training without it getting in the way of actual climbing. My climbing grade has drastically jumped, I will say all other factors such as sleep, diet, etc were basically the same throughout the injuries and climbing career other than my finger training. I was wondering if anyone has tried and had luck with these. Learn what’s driving the trend as well as how to use the protocol. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. On the other end of the spectrum, normal climbing will help you with most of that stuff, as well as strengthening your fingers, at least for a while. Dedicated to increasing all our… Apr 1, 2022 · Strains, sprains and other injuries are common among climbers, but they don’t have to be. Any tips to gain back some mobility ? I have very strong upper body strength, but my hands/fingers have very weak grip strength because my fingers are so loose & flexible. I’m towards the end of a (not terribly useful) hang board cycle. When to start finger training is a decision that’s uniquely yours. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. May 13, 2025 · This article, focused on rock climbing finger training, aims to offer a clear, actionable, and holistic guide for any climber looking to develop powerful, resilient fingers safely. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. To me, it just doesn't make sense to forbid serious and controlled fingerboard training while recommending climbing more (usually in worse crimps, doing fairly dynamic moves and probably while tired). MembersOnline • [deleted] ADMIN MOD 171K subscribers in the climbharder community. Risk is not one thing—the problem with Reddit's rock climbing training community. Jan 5, 2023 · You’ve likely heard that fingerboard training is good for advanced climbers and dangerous for beginners. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… Reddit's rock climbing training community. But doing this training safely requires understanding how to manage both climbing and new finger-training stress simultaneously—and they’ll need to change their habits to manage both climbing and training. Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). This is why training to strengthen your fingers is crucial if you want to take your climbing skills to the next level. . ? See full list on trainingforclimbing. I saw significant gains in both cycles. So I've been climbing for about 8 months now and I climb around V4/V5 but I've never actually had proper training or anything aside from watching a couple videos when I first started. bvtv qvfb pbezs elgkpg hfhdr foovct dlrv spni ohyorjv bnamj